Vintage costume jewellery can be beautifully made, but markets are full of modern copies. Learning to spot quality takes minutes and saves you from disappointing buys.

Start with the Clasp and Findings

The clasp is the hardest part to fake cheaply. A quality piece has a clasp that feels solid and operates smoothly. Run your thumb over the metal – sharp edges or a rough cast finish suggest a modern reproduction. Good findings are often soldered closed, not just bent into shape.

Look for:

• Spring rings and bolt rings that snap shut firmly, not slide loosely.
• Box clasps with a tight tongue and a firm snap.
• Safety chains on brooches and bracelets – a sign of expected wear.

If the clasp is glued or made from thin, bendy metal, walk away. A poor replacement clasp often signals other shortcuts.

Examine the Stones and Settings

Vintage costume jewellery uses glass, paste, rhinestones, or faux pearls. Quality pieces set stones by hand, with prongs or bezels. Cheap reproductions glue stones in place, and the glue yellows or fails. Tilt the piece under a bright light – a good stone has depth and fire, while plastic looks flat.

Check these details:

• Prong settings should be even, with no gaps or flattened claws.
• Glued stones often sit proud or have visible residue around the edge.
• Faux pearls should feel cool and have a lustrous sheen; plastic feels warm and looks chalky.

Missing stones are common, but several gone or cloudy, scratched stones mean the piece has led a hard life.

Check the Plating and Metal Finish

Most costume jewellery uses a base metal – brass, copper, or pot metal – plated with gold, silver, rhodium, or enamel. Look at the high points: tips of leaves, edges of a brooch, links of a bracelet. Worn-through plating to a dull grey or green base means it was thin to begin with.

A well-plated piece has an even colour with no bubbles, pitting, or flaking. Under a lamp, a rainbow-like sheen or patchy texture suggests modern, cheap plating. Enamel should be smooth and glossy. Learn to tell intentional antiquing from wear.

Hunt for Maker Marks and Signatures

Not all quality vintage jewellery is signed, but a maker's mark is a strong clue. Look on the back of brooches, inside bracelet clasps, and on earring reverses. You might find a country of origin – "Austria", "Czechoslovakia", "West Germany" – or a patent number or set of initials.

Use a magnifying glass. A crisp, deep stamp is a good sign. A faint, blurred mark could be a later copy. Be wary of laser-etched marks – that is a modern technique. Also check for scratched-out marks, which suggest someone tried to pass off a copy.

Weigh the Piece in Your Hand

Weight is a quick test. A well-made vintage brooch or necklace feels substantial. It might be solid brass or dense pot metal, and the mechanism feels solid. A modern reproduction is often lightweight, using hollow plastic or thin aluminium. The heavier of two similar pieces is usually better.

Look at the construction. Are joints soldered or just crimped? Do links move freely? Is the back finished as neatly as the front? A quality maker files down rough edges and polishes the reverse. Solder blobs, uneven gaps, or a rough back mean quick, cheap work.

Putting It into Practice at the Market

At a stall, start with a quick scan: pick up the piece, feel the weight, test the clasp, and look at the back. If it passes, examine stones and plating closely. Carry a small loupe or use your phone torch – most stallholders will not mind.

Do not be afraid to ask questions. A good seller knows their stock and is honest about repairs. If the price seems too good for a signed piece, it probably is. Trust your instincts: if it feels flimsy or overly shiny in a cheap way, leave it. With practice, you will develop a reliable eye.